Chuck's Post-Apocalyptic Modelling Page
This page contains a combination of gallery items and modelling tips from the very same Chuck who brought you the "Slag" Rubble mentioned previously on this page. I've been gaming with the Dalichuc for years. His techniques are a bit different from mine but I wouldn't be true to my mission of giving you the best and most cost-effective techniques on the web if I wouldn't have some of his stuff here. Many of these buildings are recent, his current focus being terrain similar to the Fallout series of games. So let's get started....
These were made years and years ago. They are old 1/48 Heller car kits that the hobby store had on the shelf for decades, unsold until now. They were thoroughly trashed out with various rust techniques and fielded in several games.
This is the city hall from plasticville, which until now was thought to be too small. He extended the back with a couple of added side pieces. Plastic card floors with rooms were built up. Small dollhouse furniture items (see zombietown page) were added here and there for spice. The exterior is washed with successive heavy washes of browns, red-browns, dark tans and blacks - the morass of "crap water" that Chuck brews up for his creations. It was also dry-brushed with lighter colors and with gunmetal colors. The sandy crap on the floors and on the outside? It's nothing but plain 'ol YARD DIRT that he got out of his flower bed! Primer your creation, throw in some dirt while the primer is wet. Shake off the excess, then coat again with primer. The stuff is sealed between the two paint layers and can be washed and dry-brushed normally.
Let's look at a work in progress...
I'm not sure which company made this model - again another eBay win for Chuck. The heavy washes of brown and red-brown were more selectively targetted on this model to grat effect. It was then dry-brushed with seafoam green and white for a moldering effect. The reoof had selective panels of "glass panes" glued in - pieces cut from old miniatures blister boxes - which the washes really made stand out by washing into the edges. They look like decades of dirt have accumulated on them. Some pieces were put in to simulate broken edges, some panes are left out.
This building wasn't even a complete model. He won a bag of parts on eBay. It was primered in black, and then oversprayed in splotchy patches with Testors gray and Sac Bomber Tan, which is slightly greenish. This greenish tinge adds a touch of mouldering effect to the models when they're done. As you can see, the Yard Dirt has been added early in this step.
Here is an accumulation of "Parts" that made some great ruins. Painted a base tan, they were then heavily washed and then dry-brushed with lighter colors. The wood roofs are balsa pieces that were cobbled together.
Let's look at the next model, the Reynolds Institute for the Politically Insane...
To the left is the top floor, with cages where "Mad Marcus" the insane techie keeps the victims he captures out in the wasteland, only to conduct his cruel and brutal experiments. He'll swap heads, reposition arms, add tentacles, what have you using some sort of greenish "putty" like material to create things the wasteland have yet to see. To the right is the ground floor, with a thorough coating of yard dirt, heavily washed in browns and dry-brushed with grays and tans.
Here's an example of a dual-purpose item. The windmill is from an ERTL Farm toys building set. A platform was constructed out of plastic card and bits 'n pieces. Singly, it can be used for Old West games. Put together, it makes a great Post-Apocalyptic fighting platform and Guard tower. The vane comes off, obviously.....
So how exactly is this "Crap Water" Technique executed anyway? Well, I wish I had a standard pat answer for you, but I don't. Just like a Chef doesn't necessarily need or follow a recipe to the letter, Chuck will just brew up a mix "to taste". Basically, this technique is to brew up a heavy wash or series of heavy washes of dark colors such as black, gray, greenish, dark brown, red brown, tan, etc. on a single palette on a purely on-the-fly basis depending on what you need at any given moment. Chuck usually uses fairly large brushes to slather this mixture directly onto the models, either covering the whole thing or in patches, depending what logic or intuition would suggest the model should look like. It will do it's job and run into the cracks or even partially cover more open surfaces of the model with grungy sludge. He'll sometimes use the same water jar that he rinses his brushes with to put the water into the mix. If particulates happen to make their way in, who cares? All the crappier and all the more realistic for a trashed-out model!
After that he will typically do dry-brushing on a purely as-needed basis of browns, red-browns, tans, and even gunmetal or silver to make things look really rusted out and nasty. If you like the intuitive side of painting, give it a try!
The CRAP WATER Technique, Explained. Well, sort of....
So I go over to Chuck's house the other day, and he's got some paint sitting on his painting table. The BIG can at left. So I'm wondering ... What's the deal?
Y'see, paint stores will mix up custom colors for folks, and earth tones are in. But sometimes they don't *exactly* get it right so the yuppies in question will reject a gallon or two here and there.
The poor store now has a can of unsalable paint! Oh no! WHAT TO DO?!
Well, what they do is put a deep discount price on it and put it in a corner. You can save some cash from these screw-ups and get a ton for pennies on the dollar. This is especially great if you have a lot of foam terrain pieces to paint. You'll probably be quite able to find some sort of workable color right at your local paint store. Don't think you'll be able to match the color later though!
This gem of a building was a happy accident. A set of "Dungeon Walls" was procured from the clearance bin at a local game store, and then built and modded into this. The "Crap Water" started to take on a little bit too much light tan for Chuck's taste, but since this is a water-intensive process, the water just made it run and spread out into natural patterns. What was a mistake, looked all the more realistic in the end!
Let's see some more pics....
The gate was scratchbuilt from balsa pieces and corrugated iron (aluminum) model railroad pieces. The same corrugated was used for the interior overhang. Bits of plastic card were used for roofs and to "armor" the towers. The sandbags were made out of some super-sculpey putty. I think the platform for the water cistern is some sort of old battery case, and the cistern itself is the copper end-cap of an actual plumbing pipe. Old nail polish was poured in and allow to dry to simulate grungy water residue.
As before, it was primed in black and then splotchily oversprayed with grays and Testors Sac Bomber tan for greenish tinges. Crap Water was applied throughout, and particularly in the inside courtyard. It started off too light but since "crap water" is a very wet process it blended itself with the other colors and worked quite well.
Lastly, signage was gotten from the incomperable Fallout 3 computer game. Yes, you can take those graphics out with something that can understand Jupiter Engine files, and if you have a program that can understand .dds graphics files, you can convert them and print them out. Purely as an artistic collage, of course.
Yes indeed, this is the slave pen from Vault City out of Fallout 2. The columns were from a 20mm ancient temple resin model that he wasn't going to build.
The bars are cut from some sort of sheet of embroidery backing and painted to taste. The barbed wire is simply wire wrapped around a brush handle and strung on top.
Thoroughly rusted out, it would make a perfect objective for a Fallout-based game.
This is a more recent model. It's basically just a shell composed of a little hippie van from the movie "Cars". It illustrates the Crap Water technique applied directly to unprimered plastic. Dry-brushing did the rest.
I can just imagine the "Palmistry" going on here. The best you'll get is some dippy chick asking "Do you want your palms Read?" and then when you say yes she paints your palm with red paint in the classic Bugs Bunny Style.
This being a post-apocalyptic world, a mere quizzical look is not likely to be the response, unlike the cartoon.
A nice police paddy wagon in scale, picked up at the goodwill thrift store for less than a buck.
This postal vehicle is actually an item that was once sold by the post office....
AS A STAMP DISPENSER!
Once again, heavy crap water and dry-brushing.
An escort vehicle. The last of the Heller kits used up. This is a work still in progress ....
Ah yes. The old SUPERCADDY. This model is so old it dates back to one of the first skank games we ever ran. The one where Fast Eddie bit the dust.
Fond, fond memories.
A recently converted Humvee features added stowage, armor, and is heavily dry brushed with tan to simulate a long, long, trek across the wastelands.
The "Mister Haney" mobile
Well, Chuck really outdid himself on this one. The mobile "store" and tinker's workshop of the infamous J.R. Haney, the salesman of the wastes. You know, HONEST, like that guy out of thunderdome selling fallout-contaminated water to people. If you don't know who "Mr. Haney" was, go ask your mom . She'll clue you in.
Just a basic chassis and shell really. You could use a model kit or a stripped-down die cast model car. Then add bits and bits and Bits and finally more BITS until you have something that looks like a rolling Fred Sanford emporium. If you don't know who Fred Sanford was, ask your Dad. He'll clue you in, you big Dummy.
Lastly, some miniatures....
These bikers are from Old Glory Miniatures' Road Kill line. Vampire , Werewolf, and other bikers available. Vamps or brotherhood would probably be the better choice for post apocalyptic, but hey, I don't judge. Great Harleys.
And of course some home-brewed conversions...
As well as some old favorites.